Oregon Turquoise , Gem Cilica, Copper Ore & Turquoise-ChalcedonyB.R.C.M. mining, & prospecting
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FACTS AND HISTORY

We have pieces which range in size specific gravity and hardness and especially in grades between upper to mid to upper jewelers grade all the way to some of the highest quality and verified TOP grade (from the ground) Oregon turquoise gem-chalcedony, turquoise blue gem-silica , AND natural mt. & river turquoise with a high variance in specific mineralogical surface matrix which ranges from copper to black depending on the levels of copper and iron in the area of its formation, and can be within a specific hardness of up to 6-Mohs or just about the hardness of window glass due to its volcanic formation which contributed to the HIGH quality and and absolute beauty of these formations of natural robins egg blue turquoise. These samples which were found along the waterways of the Oregon coastal mountain range are by far the RAREST available sample of authentic natural turquoise available and the world first available Oregonian sample as of its discovery in 2010 and again upon its re-discovery in summer 2015 at which time the samples were verified by PSU geology dept. The samples shown here are from the only available supply of Oregon turquoise which is a complex conglomerate turquoise with a variant matrix based on is region of formation. BRCM as of now shows to be the only producer of Oregon turquoise. Due to the mines strict non-mechanical practices and limited yearly yields they are considered a (HAT MINE) and the rich deep blue turquoise which is yielded obtains its rich coloration from the many active and inactive copper and aluminium mines. Copper is often associated with rich green turquoise and malachite where as the aluminium ( elemental aluminum) which is found in Ferruginous Bauxite Deposits makes the turquoise in Oregon a rich color of deep blue and will vary in hardness and color intensity based on hundreds of contributing formation factors including pressure heat and hydration. The aluminum turquoise is often referred to as sky-stone or Persian Blue and is often denser and harder.

Turquoise is an opaque, blue-to-green mineral that is a hydrated phosphate of copper and aluminium, with the typical chemical formula

Cu Al₆(PO4)₄(OH)₈4H2O. And though our matrix is slightly more complex with the formula identified as

CuAl₆(PO. 4)₄(OH)₈4H. 2O.(K2O) Ar CaMg(Co₃)₂.

the specific formula can vary depending on it region of turquoise formation due to variation in surrounding minerals which are hydroscopically included during formation. Even standard turquoise is rare and valuable in mid-finer grades of hardness's of 4-6 moh's and has been prized as a gem and even a valued ornamental stone for thousands of years owing to its unique hue and often bluish color. In recent times, turquoise, like most other opaque gems, has been devalued by the introduction of treatments, imitations, and synthetics onto the open turqouise market. Natural turquoise is soft and easily damaged unless stabilized. Naturally hard un-stabalized turquoise is very rare and valuable to collectors and jewelers alike.

The NATURAL (from the ground) substance has been known by many names, but the word turquoise, which dates to the 17th century, is derived from the French turques for "Turks", because the mineral was first brought to Europe from Turkey, from mines in the historical Khorasan Province of Persia.^[2]^[3]^[4]^[5] Pliny the Elder referred to the mineral as callais and the Aztecs knew the stone held MAGICAL powers which increased longevity allowed foresight and even gave the wielder the ability to speak with nature itself.

Zachary Turquoise Treatments /

sodium silicate

We have included this section on turquoise because this stone is often questioned as being “real”. Only 25% of the WORLDS turquoise is usable in its natural form which means upwards of 75% of openly traded turquoise is not natural. Our samples are manually extracted from rivers here in Oregon and manually graded and the specific mineralogical matrices (matrix) are tested for hardness quality and value. 90% of OUR turquoise is untreated and simply oiled for natural preservation of authentic beauty without damaged color which is unaltered during natural treatment. Turquoise is a fragile, porous stone with a tendency to undergo changes in color when exposed to light, perspiration, oils, water and detergents. Being a phosphate mineral, turquoise is inherently fragile and sensitive to solvents; perfume and other cosmetics. Chemicals in these solutions will attack the finish and may alter the color of turquoise gems, as will skin oils, as will most commercial jewelry cleaning fluids. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight may also discolor or dehydrate turquoise.

Here's the general procedure that seems to be working now. it called the ZACHARY treatment which is used by native jewelers. Now It's not as involved as it may seem at first glance, and gets easier with practice. so here is the widely coveted semi-secret process used by mainstream jewelers of turquoise and opal and gem silica.

1) Clean slabs (or rough less than 1" thick) in a solution of hot water and trisodium phosphate (available in most paint departments for wall cleaning) prepared in the concentration specified for grease removal. I let them soak overnight. This may cause some slight color change - deeper blues and greens on chrysocolla and turquoise. Rinse slabs thoroughly and allow to air-dry.

2) For this step, you need a shallow, lidded stainless steel (not iron or aluminum) pot or pan and a means of holding temperature at around 180 F, substantially below boiling. I found a thrift store electric buffet warming plate which worked nicely. The stabilizing formula is based on sodium silicate solution with a weight ratio of around 3.2 (available at http://www.chemistrystore.com/sodium_silicate.htm and other similar sources). Read the MSDS! This solution is caustic, and you should wear eye and skin protection to handle it. Spray the pot lid edge with PAM or other cooking spray to keep it from adhering to the pot. Clean up drips and used utensils immediately with warm water. If the solution gets on fabric, rinse and wash it before the silicate dries.

3) Now, this is where things get a little weird... it takes a combination of very low activity organic acid and alkali mineral salts (carbonates, phosphates and sulfates of calcium, potassium, etc.) to get the silicate to polymerize in a non-water-soluble form, e.g. as agate. Though this can be done with very concentrated mineral water (about 1 gallon boiled down to 1 cup) and aspirin or citric acid, I found the easiest and cheapest way to do this was with Emer-Gen-C Lite mineral supplement packets. ***It's important to get the Lite sugar-free version --- sugar or fructose will oxidize and may discolor the stones.*** Dissolve one packet of Emer-gen-C in 1 cup (approx. 250 ml) of water and allow the fizzing to disperse. Add this solution to 8 oz. of sodium silicate in the stainless steel pot and stir to mix. For stones with very fine porosities or hairline cracks, add about 1 teaspoon of liquid dish soap to reduce the viscosity of the solution.

4) Submerge the slabs in silicate solution in a single layer. Stacked slabs may stick together. Cover and let stand on the heat source for at least 24 hours. Longer cooking won't hurt... I've left some material in for up to 4 days. [For very thick material, a pressure cooker has been suggested, but the risks of silicate splash clogging the vent mechanism are too great for my peace of mind.] Remove the slabs and set them on a spray-greased baking rack over newspaper. Allow the slabs to drip dry. The dried slabs are safe to handle bare-handed, and can be gently pried off the rack if they stick. A word of caution --- dried silicate can be as sharp as glass!

5) Place the dry slabs on a cookie sheet and set in a cold oven. Turn the oven to "warm" and leave it on overnight. Turn the oven off and allow the stones to cool to room temperature with the door closed. The slabs should look shiny and any deep cracks will be partially filled. Porous stones should feel noticeably heavier after this treatment. At this point, you can re-clean the stone and "paint" silicate formula to fill larger cracks and voids. Repeat the drying and baking processes to set the added silicate.

The whole cleaning, soaking, drying and baking process can be repeated as many times as you feel necessary. There may be some brownish surface discoloration on the stone, but this comes off with polishing.

Silicate solution can be reused multiple times, adding a little water to replenish the volume. The solution may have some precipitated white silica gel and will turn tea-colored. When a thick layer of silica gel has precipitated and the solution seems thin, treat it by pouring out on about a pound of scoopable cat litter, allowing the litter to dry, then discarding it in regular trash. Don't pour it down the sink.

I've tried to explain in as much detail as I've gleaned from a half dozen or so different trials. So far, it's worked on slabs and rough of many different jaspers, chrysocolla, turquoise, Laguna, Botswana, plume and moss agates, Koroit opal, petrified woods and fossil coral.

Hope this helps.

Different Turquoise Treatments Include:

Natural – this is turquoise which has never been treated, it’s in its “from the ground” form.(90% of our total collection is untreated natural)

Enhanced –this is a way in which the stone is treated with varying electrical currents that harden the stone naturally, and enhance the original color of the turquoise. No dyes, resins, waxes or oils are used. Enhanced turquoise will not change color over time.

Stabilized - (we do not un-naturally stabilize) this is turquoise that is impregnated with acrylic or epoxy to harden the stone and enhance the color. Stabilized turquoise will not change color overtime.

Compressed -( we do not compress) this is a treatment that uses NATURAL pressure to harden the stone
Fracture-Sealed - ( we never use sealants or plastics) this is when the stone is treated with a fracture sealer which hardens the matrix in it.

Reconstituted - ( we do not use reconstituted material EVER) this is the process of taking pieces of turquoise, chips, powder or low grade, mix with an epoxy resin and add dye then compress into blocks. (COMMONLY FOUND in Arizona/New-Mexico)

Color Enhanced - is turquoise that has been stabilized and dyed to a specific or degree of color. (WE NEVER ENHANCE)

Waxing and Oiling – (We treat 2-3% of our stones for native jewelry practices ) is one of the first treatments used in ancient times, providing a wetting effect, thereby enhancing the color and luster. This treatment is more or less acceptable by tradition, especially because treated turquoise is usually of a higher grade to begin with. Oiled and waxed stones are prone to "sweating" under even gentle heat or if exposed to too much sun and they may develop a white surface film or bloom over time. With some skill, oil and wax treatments can be restored.

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Stump-town Oregon
USA 97230
Phone: (503) 274-8760
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